Tremont and Biking Cades Cove

It seems, that sometimes I forget just how close I actually live to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. I mean, I’m only four hours away from my home in Guntersville, Alabama. If I get an early morning start, I can be there by lunchtime. So, when a photographer friend of mine suggested we go photograph the park, I jumped at the chance. He also suggested that we plan our trip so that we would be there on a Wednesday. Apparently, on Wednesdays (from early May to September) the Cades Cove Loop road is vehicle-free. Cars, trucks and motorcycles are not permitted to drive the 11-mile ring around one of the prettiest mountain meadows you will ever see. Cyclists and pedestrians are the only ones permitted on that day. My friend and I had recently purchased e-bikes and we were anxious to see how they did on the rather hilly circuit.

We chose Townsend, Tennessee as our base of operations. Townsend is located on the quieter side of the Smokies, well away from the bustling, noisy touristy towns of Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge. While there are not as many motels and restaurants in Townsend, the quiet and lack of traffic definitely make up for it. To illustrate, we made the mistake of driving into Pigeon Forge for dinner on our first night, but at a rather popular restaurant there, we were told our wait would be over an hour. Forget that. We got back in the car and made a quick return to Townsend where we got a table, with no wait, at the Riverstone Cafe. There, we had a terrific barbeque dinner along with the best fried green tomatoes either of us had ever had. What’s equally great about Townsend, is that while the volume of traffic is a fraction of what it is in Pigeon Forge, they have additionally constructed a seven mile bike trail right alongside the main road and close to the Little River. Consequently, we seldom had to drive anywhere. We just hopped on our bikes and peddled to where we needed to go, which usually involved eating at one of the many restaurants in town. Our favorite was called The Abbey, which is billed as a taproom. The place looks like a church and was once a bridal chapel. We ate outside next to the river. We liked the place so much, that we went back a second time on our last night in town.

We arrived in Townsend on a Tuesday, so we had an early wake up call in the morning in order to get to the entrance to Cades Cove for our bike ride. We were advised to get there early since parking spaces go quickly, and if you don’t get one, you will be sent packing by the park ranger with the suggestion to try again later in the day. So, we were up at 4:30 am and arrived at the parking lot around 6:00 am. We thought we’d have an ample selection of spaces at that early hour, so we were surprised to find only a handful left. We were happy to get a spot, but would have been even happier had we remembered to bring a sweater or jacket. Neither of us realized just how cold it is in the mountains at six o’clock in the morning, even in late June. Once we got going on the trail and picked up some speed, we really wished we had brought a windbreaker.

I have driven the Cove Loop many times, but this was the first time on a bicycle. What a different experience it is. You can really appreciate the beauty of this magnificent meadow at your own pace, without having to crawl along at five miles an hour while staring at the car bumper in front of you through a bug-splattered windshield. Riding bikes gave us the chance to stop where and when we wanted to, while avoiding holding up a line of vehicles behind us. We both brought along our cameras, and while I regretted bringing too much gear in my backpack, I somehow managed not to lose anything along the way. My friend and I each carried a can of bear spray although we never used it (thankfully) during our entire stay in the park. It took us five hours to make our way around the loop, which lets you know just how many times we stopped to take photos. We started out in the fog, which was great, but it didn’t afford us too many photo opportunities. As it burned off, we began to see more of the meadow, the split-rail fence lines, trees and finally, the mountains. We stopped at most of the homesteads and churches, as did most other bikers, but we tended to linger longer since we had our “real” cameras with us. I have always had problems making decent photos of the structures dotted around the cove. While interesting to see, they are not remarkably photogenic, in my opinion. You really have to work with them, walk around them, find an angle and really study them. They are all rather austere. My results have always come up lacking and this time was no different.

We did not see much wildlife in the cove, or really anywhere in the park. We did see a few bears and deer, but that was about it. The bears were mostly in Cades Cove, but they were a good distance away, which required me to pull out the 500mm lens a few times. Bear sightings seemed to be the main reason most people stopped pedaling. Everyone wanted to get a photo of a bear, even though they were usually several hundred yards away and hidden in tall grass. On regular days, when the park is open to vehicles, a bear sighing will bring the entire string of bumper-to-bumper cars to a complete standstill, as drivers stop to gaze at a mother bear and her cubs. At least, we didn’t have to deal with that. The closest we ever got to a bear on this trip was while we drove the backroads of the park, but we didn’t have an opportunity to stop.

The park is a vast area which straddling two states. You really need to plan where you want to go in the time that you have there. We knew that we would have to limit the territory that we wished to explore. Originally, we went to the Elkmont area, mainly to see the preserved town there. It was interesting, but didn’t offer any great photo nuggets, so we moved on. In the back of my head, I kept hearing the name Tremont. I knew that was where we needed to go to find the photographs we were looking for; you know, the mountain streams with the water cascading over the rocks usually rendered in a slow cottony blur. Other elements we hoped to include, were the rhododendrons which were supposed to be in full bloom in mid-June, but they were a bit late this year. I only saw a few in full bloom, and they were never in the right place. We also had to contend with dappled light the entire time we were in the park. That’s when the sun is bright and filters through the trees to leave patches of sunlight and shadow, the bane of any landscape photographer’s day. Light overcast skies is what we are seeking most days. Overcast skies soften the light, improve colors and eliminate “hot spots” forcing your camera to have to deal with a dynamic range that is beyond its limits. But, you deal with the hand you are given and make the most of it, by trying to control things with filters, exposure stacking, HDR, etc. All those techniques have limitations, however. You do the best you can and hope that you come home with a few images worthy of posting, or better yet, printing.

After four days of exploring a small portion of the most visited national park in the United States, it was time to pack up our gear, mount our bikes back onto the SUV, and head for home. All in all, it was a great trip and well overdue. I do not plan to let as much time pass for another visit, and I don’t think it will. When I got home and described to family members my bike ride around Cades Cove, on no-vehicle Wednesdays, they all expressed interest in planning their own visits. I just might have to join them. After all, I’ve got the bear spray!

The Golden Cypress of Caddo Lake: Photography Highlights

Bald Cypress trees from the state park dock

During November of this year, I participated in a five-day photography tour at Caddo Lake in Texas, accompanied by a group of dedicated photographers from across the country. Our collective aim was to capture the natural beauty of the region, with particular focus on the striking bald cypress trees that turn a remarkable golden hue during the autumn months.

Each morning began at 4 a.m. to ensure an early arrival at our launch point in Uncertain, Texas by 5 a.m., allowing us ample time to photograph the sunrise and, when conditions permitted, the ethereal fog that can transform the lake’s vistas. We navigated the lake aboard a rented pontoon boat, which provided us access to prime locations thanks to our knowledgeable local boat driver and experienced tour guide.

An egret basking in the setting sun

Sunrise sessions were devoted not only to the landscape but also to the abundant bird life, notably egrets and great blue herons. After several hours photographing these subjects, we returned to our accommodation—a bed and breakfast in Jefferson, Texas—where we enjoyed hearty breakfasts with distinct Tex-Mex influences.

The massive trunk of the cypress tree

Midday was reserved for educational instruction, as our tour leader offered detailed guidance on advanced image post-processing techniques in Photoshop, helping elevate the quality of our captured photographs.

Spanish moss cascades down from the cypress trees

By mid-afternoon, around 3:30 p.m., our group would once again set out onto the lake, seeking optimal lighting to highlight the golden bald cypress trees adorned with Spanish moss. Opportunities occasionally arose to incorporate kayakers or fishermen into our compositions, adding dynamic elements to the scenic frames. As sunset approached, we aimed to photograph compelling silhouettes of the cypress trees against the vibrant evening sky.

Our group included photographers with varying levels of expertise, ranging from enthusiastic novices to seasoned professionals, fostering a collaborative environment throughout the trip.

The setting sun silhouettes the cypress trees

Both our early morning and late afternoon excursions on the lake and through the bayous were met with challenging cold temperatures, necessitating heavy coats, blankets, and hand warmers to maintain comfort.

Fall colors add to the beauty of the lake

Caddo Lake’s significance as the only natural lake in Texas was ever-present. Covering approximately 25,000 acres, it stands as a unique ecological treasure. However, recent challenges have emerged—the looper worm, which feeds on the cypress trees, has resulted in diminished vibrancy of their autumnal foliage, impacting the very scenery that draws photographers to this location.

Early morning anglers

Despite these difficulties, the experience at Caddo Lake proved to be professionally enriching, offering invaluable opportunities for skill development, artistic exploration, and appreciation of Texas’s natural heritage.

A blue heron stalks its next meal

The camaraderie among participants was a highlight of the tour, as we frequently exchanged tips and critiqued each other’s work during downtime. Evenings were spent sharing favorite images and stories from the day, further strengthening the sense of community and shared passion for photography. These interactions not only enhanced our technical abilities but also forged lasting friendships and connections that extended beyond the duration of the trip.

Looking For Fall

Unlike New England, my home state of Alabama rarely showcases the vibrant fall colors that draw visitors from across the country to the northeast. The intensity of the season varies from year to year, and sometimes discovering autumn’s hues in the deep south requires a bit of effort and exploration. The colors can be elusive and are often not immediately apparent. With this in mind, I made my way to the Botanical Garden in Huntsville, Alabama this week, hoping to find some seasonal color.

A leaf struggles against the inevitable forces of nature to survive

I realized that I was a little late in the season this year, and many of the colors throughout the gardens were rather muted. However, I was determined to find pockets of autumn beauty by shifting my focus from sweeping landscapes to smaller, individual subjects.

The setting sun turns this Bald Cypress tree golden near the entrance to the botanical garden entrance.

One of the most striking sights was the bald cypress trees, which had turned a rich golden hue. The Japanese maples stood out with their fiery red leaves, especially when they were lit by the setting sun.

An American Winterberry holly

Visitors walk past a Japanese maple tree back-lit by the setting sun turning it red.

The holly bushes also caught my eye, boasting an impressive crop of berries just in time for the holidays.

Among all the scenes, my favorite was a single leaf clinging to a branch, as if stubbornly resisting the inevitable pull of nature and the wind—a struggle it is destined to lose.

Linden Viburnum

American Beautyberry

So, while Alabama lacks the conditions to produce the bright hues of autumn like other parts of the country, with a discerning eye and some patience, one can still find colorful subjects to photograph. Where we lack the vast expanses of golden and crimson woodlands, we make up for it with seasonal colors that force us to get up close to appreciate.

Bald Cypress

Discovering Vintage Treasures at Old Car City

_{Capturing Art at Old Car City}

Recently, I had the opportunity to revisit Old Car City. OCC is nestled in the pine forests of White, Georgia. It is a sprawling auto graveyard that has become a haven for photographers and automobile enthusiasts alike. Spanning nearly forty acres, this unique destination is home to thousands of vintage cars, trucks, and buses, each bearing the rusted scars of time and the remnants of a bygone era.

Old Car City is not merely a junkyard; it is an open-air museum of automotive history and a canvas for creative souls seeking beauty in decay. The vehicles, some dating back to the early 20th century, stand as silent witnesses to the lives and roads they once traversed. Covered in layers of rust, moss, and pine needles, these relics exude an undeniable charm, offering countless opportunities for artistic exploration.

For photographers, Old Car City is a playground of textures, contrasts, and stories waiting to be told. The interplay of light filtering through the trees and the vibrant hues of oxidation creates an almost magical atmosphere. Capturing these elements requires more than technical skill—it demands an eye for detail and a sensitivity to the narratives embedded in every dent and faded emblem. From the ghostly silhouettes of forgotten buses to the intricate patterns of corrosion on a classic truck’s hood, each shot tells its own tale.

An old fire truck gets some shelter from the hot Georgia sun.

Automobile devotees find themselves drawn to Old Car City for the nostalgia it evokes. Many of the vehicles here are now considered collectors’ items, their value tied not only to their make and model but to the stories they represent. While none of these treasures are for sale, their preservation in this outdoor gallery allows visitors to appreciate the craftsmanship of a different time.

The allure of Old Car City extends beyond its physical presence. It stirs the imagination, prompting visitors to wonder about the journeys these vehicles once undertook and the lives they intersected with. Who drove that faded Chevy pickup, and what cargo did it carry? What moments of joy and sorrow were experienced inside the cabin of that rusted school bus? If only these machines could speak, their narratives would weave a rich tapestry of human history and progress.

This sedan has been here long enough for a tree to be growing out of it.

Planning a trip to Old Car City is an invitation to step back in time and immerse oneself in the artistry of neglect and abandonment. Comfortable shoes, a camera with versatile lenses, and a spirit of curiosity are all one needs to make the most of this experience.

Old Car City, White, GA. Tue. – Sat. 9 am – 4 pm. Closed Sun – Mon.

Photographing Cranes and Pelicans in Alabama

Almost every year at this time, I try to photograph the Sandhill cranes that winter at the Wheeler National Wildlife Refuge in Decatur, Alabama. Their number totals close to 20,000 birds. They fly down from the Great Lakes region where they spend the summer months. Arriving in mid-November, they will stay until the middle of February. Sandhills stand almost four feet tall and have a wingspan of almost six feet.

A row of adult Sandhill cranes feeding at the refuge

An adult and juvenile Sandhill crane

Sometimes, Whooping cranes will join the Sandhills, but I did not see any during this most recent visit. It is always a bonus to see a “whooper” as they are on the endangered species list and are a rare sight, though their numbers are making a steady, albeit slow recovery. There were, however, several White pelicans on the banks and in the water enjoying the milder than usual temperatures. They are more accessible and less skittish than the Sandhills who fly off at the least disturbance.

American White Pelican

Pelicans that nest at Wheeler National Wildlife Refuge exhibit several interesting habits. Many pelican species are migratory. However, those nesting at Wheeler often remain in the area post-breeding season if conditions are favorable. They may migrate to warmer areas during winter, but return in the spring for nesting. They prefer to nest on isolated islands or in marshy areas. They often choose habitats close to water, where food sources are abundant. Pelicans tend to be highly social as a way to protect themselves from predators.

A trio of pelicans dive for fish

These birds primarily feed on fish and other aquatic organisms. They utilize their distinctive pouches to scoop up water and fish simultaneously while swimming. These habits highlight the significant role of Wheeler National Wildlife Refuge. It provides a safe environment for pelicans and other wildlife.

Sandhill cranes gather at Wheeler National Wildlife Refuge

Sandhill cranes are known for their highly social behavior. They often form large flocks during migration. This behavior is also seen in their wintering and breeding grounds. While feeding, Sandhill cranes often forage in groups, which can enhance foraging efficiency. They may also engage in social behaviors such as vigilance, where some individuals watch for predators while others feed.

Sandhill Cranes are monogamous and often mate for life. They engage in elaborate courtship displays that involve dancing, synchronized movements, and vocalizations, strengthening their pair bonds.

A lone crane silhouetted in the marsh

They are vocal birds, using a variety of calls to communicate. Their distinctive trumpeting calls can be heard for miles, serving to reinforce social bonds and maintain group cohesion.

Sandhill Cranes form close social groups for protection

Sandhill Cranes typically travel in groups during migration. These flocks can consist of dozens to thousands of birds. Traveling in large numbers allows them to benefit from increased safety.

Sandhills take flight

It is always a joy to photograph these majestic birds. It is wonderful to see them thrive and increase in number every year. While Sandhill cranes and White pelicans are not on the endangered species list, there are two subspecies of the Sandhill crane that are federally listed as endangered. They are the Mississippi Sandhill and the Cuban Sandhill.

I feel fortunate that I live as close as I do to the Wheeler Wildlife Refuge, and I can visit these birds as often as I do. They are truly amazing to watch as their popularity increases each year. The refuge has done an amazing job promoting the migratory habits of these birds and making them accessible to more people. They have constructed a beautiful visitor’s center to help educate students as well as the general public. A short walk to the observatory building allows people to view these waterfowl up close from the comfort of a heated shelter. For photographers like me, a recently built photography blind allows bird watchers and photographers close proximity to the birds while maintaining their cover.

WNWR photography blind